No spark. But again that doesn’t seem right because the voltage regulator and the cdi are to different circuits and it should not effect the CDI if the VR isn’t even hooked up at all. Use the guide above to gather your voltage readings at each step. We are tearing into it trying to locate the problem. Use your multimeter to take a reading directly from this wire, stator side. Red/blk from stator (New) = 60VAC, blu/ylw = 6.5VAC I ask because if you are using an analog type, the very small amount of voltage from the trigger wire may not be noticeable. These factors include spark plug seat design, thread length and diameter, and reach. The #5 pin can complicate testing to it’s best to remove it temporarily. Thx! Although, my stator wire bundle is 100% within a block – I have no bullet style plugs. Ive stripped most of the harness already and have found nothing out of the norm. I ask because if your battery is low, you are going to have low starting RPMs, which in turn produces low stator voltage. Very good. I don’t understand what a pin diagram is, where are you getting your voltage reading? Oh I have a Baja 150 with a Howhit motor.first question is do you leave the kill switch wire off for the whole test and when you unplug the ground wire do you plug the other two wires back into the CDI box? I have the old cdi and a new one. I would think it would just always be grounded. That sounds bad. Try taking a look at the CDI power pin (#6). Ignition of the fuel-air mixture is produced by electric discharge with a voltage of several thousand or tens of thousands of volts, emerging between the electrodes. NGK Iridium Spark Plugs Honda Ruckus 50cc NGK Iridium IX Spark Plug for Honda Ruckus is designed specifically for the performance enthusiast. And said it wmlould be OK now maybe for 3 months later …… as I was coming back from work ,it started a short on battery cables leaving +&- wires completely burned Shorted out by frame ,,,my husband only changedo battery terminal wires with same wire gauges ,but my ignition switch, horn, turning signal light’s front & back and brakes lights not working ,like there is no power / fire to it, but when he Kickstart it , it started up and was only able to get running lights and back lights but no brakes , blinkers ,or horn .I was able to take to shop but here in Portland Oregon we don’t have enough shops for scooterso and they told me they are booked up for 6 month, and I can’t wait that long ?any suggestions for me to do ,please help ,thank you? Makes sense now as testing with a digital voltmeter little to no current is drawn but soon as I connected the coil and drew current the lead would go open circuit and stay that way until next day when all cooled and probably one hair wire made contact. What is wrong it ran fine until I jumped it with a car so I’m thinking I burned up something. since I removed it after and it still runs, but your suggestions were well designed and very understandable Id say that’s nothing to worry about unless you have two key ways 180 degrees apart on the crankshaft and stator but I’ve never seen such. One thing I did notice was the new CDI box was smaller (about 1/2″ shorter and 1/2″ narrower) The CDI box is a 6 pin rounded type connector. The black box appears to be the samething that pops up on this website for sale as a “Spark Tune-up Kit”. I am so exited, this has plaque me for a while. 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If the plug is fouled or cracked it may not spark. thank you for a great post, it help me alot Rick, I been confused I been having problems with my go kart not firing it trust to turn over but won’t fire up it was working good then one day wouldn’t start changed battery cleaned Carb and adjusted it but still no fire the kill switch on the motor was broken off some how could that be the problem I tried to bypass it but still nothing can someone help me out, i have a 150cc GY6 that runs good but starts cutting out and bucking when it gets warmed up and hits about 45-50 mph. I’m assuming the stator is done. What is the right Stator? do you mean your turning the key to off and its still running? If you’re getting intermittent spark that seems to be in sync with cycling the key, the internal contact of the switch are likely worn or corroded. Ok, I’m ready for some help. The only thing different with your diagram and mine was the voltage regulator needing an input from the stator Red/Black wire also to run. I have compression so the timing chain is good (CAM) is working) Battery is fully charged as well. i pulled the plug out and it doesnt have a terminal nut on it, its a ngkcr7hsa i replcaced the stock one around a year ago, and was running fine, i dont remember if it had a terminal nut and if i am having an issue because of this missing, the ngk doesnt seem to want to stay clipped in the boot as i tried to plug the ngk into the boot with the plug out of the motor. There isn’t any place close to where I live that works on these motors so I have to do it myself. I’m not familiar with the ignition system on 250cc class buggies. Spark Plug for GY6, Keenso High Performance 3 Electrode Spark Plug for Scooter ATV Quads GY6 50… By rights it shouldn’t matter since all it does is produce an AC voltage source. Happy wife, happy life! any help would be wonderful. Share ideas. Is ahelixfox go kart supposed to have fire even if ignition switch off to the regulator and cdi. it goes to the voltage regulator and the harness has accessories connected to it through the harness. Make sure that pin 5 on the CDI is not grounded. Ensure your multimeter is set to read in VOLTS “AC”. I think I may have put my stator on upside down. I recently replaced the Stator CDI and Coil and still no spark. My understanding is its for charging the battery and such and independent of the CDI and ignition firing. if that’s the case its working perfectly . Thanks for the reply. Stator checks… CDI power appears to be okay. SOMEONE CAN HELP ME? Swapped back in old parts, still no change. The fuse blowing problem is most likely related to the regulator rectifier and also likely a separate issue from what is preventing spark. 24.0 v. Fuse blows. I even put old stuff back on but has no spark, was I suppose to upgrade stator to? So make sure the kill switch, key switch, and possibly the brake switch are either out of the circuit, or properly connected and positioned for starting. does that mean its bad? Using the wiring Diagram I have made my own plugs and disconnected all other wires. A good spark plug should show an open circuit between the center electrode and the tip. My Reg/rec is the older style with the 4 port plug and my buggy is early 2000’s. I need to get some more info but the starter relay chatters as well. I can gather a lot of hard work has gone in to it. I put the coil ground to the engine frame. It goes to your #1 pin on the CDI. 3. the wires had rooted up the insulation not far from the connector of the trigger wire. Turn the motor over and see if you get any pulsing voltage around .5 to 1 volt. Performance Racing Ignition Coil AC CDI Spark Plug GY6 50cc 150cc ATV Scooters $31.99 ( Bids) Time Remaining: 1d 5h 44m Buy It Now for only: $31.99: For GY6 49CC 50CC ATV Moped Scooter Ignition Coil CDI Spark Plug Magneto Stator $38.90 ( Bids) Time Remaining: 18d 20h 15m Buy It Now for only: $38.90 When it cranks for few sec,the kill switch will kill it. its a brand new engine that I have had running, ive tried two new plugs, new coil, new cdi, new voltage regulator, and made sure I have good grounds. I have nothing hooked up besides the CDI and coil. Check the marked lead for resistance to ground. where or what pin are you putting the ground on ? 2) CDI I rotated the flywheel bump past the module coil and it still has continuity to engine ground. I get backfire once in a while. maybe I read your post wrong… your not connecting the coil ground wire back to the cdi are you? Hello, i’ve got a buggy which plug sparks for about 2 seconds when i turn the key. Do you know which Hammerhead 150cc model do you have? I get correct ac voltage at cdi power, trigger wire, and cdi output. Thank you. Have no spark. But I may be able to be of some help. Remember your scooter is at max power all the time unlike our cars. I NEED HELP!! So, maybe it’s in the plug?? All rights reserved. This plug fits 50cc, 70cc, 90cc, 100cc, 110cc, 125cc, and 150cc models. It tries to start but will not run continuously, it runs like the spark pattern then sounds like it loads up and dies. Followed the steps above (including bypassing switches) and got these results: Stator to CDI input: 68v to 71v Replaced coil, cdi and stator. 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Question does the Voltage regulator have to be connected? Tao Tao AT125-F ATV. Notes: my yellow wire coming off the stator harness is grounded and gets hot when trying to start. -Fine Iridium ti When does the fuse blow? Not a fuel or carb issue–took it apart and was whistle clean–sprayed jets out with cleaner anyway. I just would like to thank you guys for this article it simplifies the entire ignition system. I suppose I should get over that. remove the wire from pin 5 on the CDI and see it it will start. Any recommendations? I recommend this: 1. Ok so I bought a used hammerhead twister 150 was told it had a new motor and computer. Hi, I’ve got a Twister Hammerhead 150cc. The reason this is the case is because the trigger wire sends a burst of voltage once per RPM that is only 10ms in duration (10 one-thousandths of a second). It needs 12 volts from the battery to work if you have a DC type CDI. This isn’t exactly definitive, as we have seen working coils with 0.0ohms resistance. Hey Dan, The minimum we have seen working is around 18vAC. Weak trigger has been shown to cause a heat buildup inside of the CDI. Any ideas on this? blue/yellow=0.149 vac. The coil reading was .003 VAC. i have a similar issue, i checked the 2 wires that plug into the back of the coil when cranking it and i get pulses from 13~18v It’s actually good. When a signal is received by the trigger pickup passing over the flywheel magnet, the CDI will discharge the stored energy into the wires leading to the ignition coil. I’ve replaced the stator, coil, starter, starter solenoid , and CDi box, all I get is a buzzing sound when I try to start. Also, I have no blue/yellow wire. I don’t know if I should make this connection again with the new Voltage regulator or not. Tim, your voltages going into the CDI are healthy. Input from trigger module Actually, I can’t recall a single confirmed example of a confirmed problem with ignition timing over the years. i replaced the cdi, coil, stator, rectifire, ignition switch. Ignition timing is when the spark plug fires relative to the position of the piston (and crankshaft/flywheel). It was my KEY SWITCH. I have a hammerhead gt 150 with new coil, cdi,and when it cranks the coil fires briefly then quits sparking unless i wiggle key back and forth and starts sparking a little again. When … Good luck on yours! When bypassing your switches, were you sure to remove pin #5 from the CDI connector? I have what I believe is a Hammerhead 150 with F/R and twin chain. The plug is very rarely the cause of no spark on the GY6. I removed pin 5 (kill switch wire) from the CDI box connector. In stock-+ Add to cart. Did you gets your to spark yet? The blue and white I assume is the trigger wire and it has 0.05vac The green and white the power to the power to the c.d.i. then it turned off . Can the stator be installed 180 deg out (upside down) cause this? I am working on a SunL GY6 150 cc dune buggy. navigation. I have 0 resistance to ground on cable to pin 4 and I have proved that the ignition takes the cable to pin 5 open circuit and back to ground(also checked this didn’t change during cranking). Still no spark. Help please. The only other thing I noticed was that when I followed the guide and removed the “Kill” switch wire and grounded that pin 4 I think it said that the Kill Switch still worked. GY6 Swapping The Honda Ruckus: What To Expect From Your Swap, Stator (6th winding and trigger pickup module). Are you testing the Red/Black wire for AC voltage, or Ohms? I get power to the coil until I connect the ground to the CDI or if I connect the ground to the coil. Based on that information I thought the stator and pick up sensor were OK I re-connected the CDI box and measured the voltage to the coil and received 0 volts. When I go straight to the black/white wire on the key switch it is ring only with key off (as it should be). We have all of these parts. If the problem persists, let us know. I don’t know too much about these things so Im hoping someone can help me out? Sounds like a bad starter/ignition switch. Obviously the 6 pole worked originally before I bought it but then was damaged before I got it. CDI Connection Kit (Pigtail) Trivalent Metal Plating Provides Superior Anti-Corrosion and Anti-Seizing Properties. Was all working fine when I got it then the starter clutch destroyed itself. My Electric Start Button DO NOT WORK So it sat in my garage for about two years and now it won’t start. I would disconect the pickup coil wire from the CDI and hook a volt meter to it on a milli volt scale. Since I have had it, it runs like crap Bogs down with just a little trottle and backfires like crazy, thinking it was a fuel issue I went a head and replaced the carb, so it is still doing it so now my thinking is misfiring, is there a way to check/ adjust the timing? I have a Hammerhead Gts 150. I do not understand why this is happening. How do you check for shorts? I have a tomberlin crossfire 150cc gy6 clone. 4 — 0 volts From your numbers, it appears that your original stator was bad. to Pin #2 Haven’t had any spark since. Ignition coil positive It takes a CR7HS spark plug so I … Yes, you should switch it, on the supply voltage pin, you should run a switch to the cab of your Kart, so you can turn the ignition on and off. Thanks to this guide I found out the Stator was not producing a correct voltage so I ended up replacing the CDI, Coil/Plug wire , spark plug and the Stator.